Muga Silk of Assam
The golden wild silk found nowhere else on earth — its natural sheen improves with every wash.
| GI number | GI-22 |
|---|---|
| Registered | |
| Goods class | 23, 24, 25 |
| Typical price | ₹15,000 - ₹50,000+ |
| Proprietor | Patent Information Centre, ASTEC |
| State | Assam |
The story
Muga is the only silk in the world with a natural golden lustre, spun by the Antheraea assamensis moth that lives only in the Brahmaputra valley. Once reserved for Ahom royalty, a muga mekhela chador is an heirloom that outlives its first owner — the fabric famously grows shinier with each wash and can last fifty years.
How it is made
- Semi-wild silkworms reared on som and soalu trees in open groves.
- Golden cocoons collected and reeled — the colour is natural, never dyed in.
- Yarn woven on traditional throw-shuttle looms, often with red/black motifs.
- No bleaching or dyeing of the base — the gold is the point.
◈ How to identify the authentic Muga Silk of Assam
What to check
- Natural golden sheen that intensifies with washing and age.
- Cannot be dyed easily — a 'coloured muga' body is suspect.
- Slub texture of wild silk under the fingers.
- GI + Silk Mark from Assam's registered reelers and weavers.
Displays an organic, shimmering golden-yellow luster that grows more vivid with washing. Burns cleanly to soft ash; synthetic silks melt into beads.
Price to expect
Genuine Muga Silk of Assam typically sells in the range of ₹15,000 - ₹50,000+. Prices far below that range are a common sign of an imitation.
Where to buy
Look for authorised sellers such as ARTFED, Sualkuchi Weaving Clusters, or government emporia and cooperatives in Assam.
Registry record
Registry record: GI-22 · Registered 2007 · Proprietor: Patent Information Centre, ASTEC
Region and market
Muga silk comes from the Antheraea assamensis silkworm, which feeds on som and soalu leaves and is reared semi-wild in Assam. Production is limited to the Brahmaputra valley, and volumes are small compared with mulberry silk. Traditional attire such as the mekhela chador uses muga, and the fibre's natural golden colour is highly valued because it cannot be replicated by dyeing.
Buying guide
Ask for the Silk Mark and the GI tag, and look for a natural golden sheen and slightly textured feel. Real muga becomes lustrous after repeated washing, so a brand-new piece can look duller than an old one. Buy from Assam's government emporia, weavers' cooperatives and reputable dealers in Sualkuchi, and expect a higher price than for other silks because of the limited supply.
Frequently asked questions
What is the GI registration number of Muga Silk of Assam?
This catalogue lists Muga Silk of Assam as GI-22. Registration numbers should be confirmed against the official GI Journal before commercial use.
Where is Muga Silk of Assam made?
Muga Silk of Assam is produced in Assam, in the textiles category of this catalogue.
Can Muga Silk of Assam legally be made outside Assam?
No. GI protection means only producers within the notified region of Assam may legally sell goods under the name “Muga Silk of Assam”.
What does genuine Muga Silk of Assam cost?
Genuine Muga Silk of Assam typically sells in the range of ₹15,000 - ₹50,000+. Prices far below this range are a common sign of an imitation.
How can I spot a fake Muga Silk of Assam?
Displays an organic, shimmering golden-yellow luster that grows more vivid with washing. Burns cleanly to soft ash; synthetic silks melt into beads.
Where should I buy genuine Muga Silk of Assam?
Look for authorised sellers such as ARTFED, Sualkuchi Weaving Clusters, or government emporia and cooperatives in Assam.